Check what kind of first wash you are doing
Look up the exact fabric or model, not just the word “raw.” Sanforized means the fabric was pre-shrunk; one-wash means the garment has already been washed. Neither is a promise of zero further shrinkage. Iron Heart explains the distinction.
- Unwashed and unsanforized, or sold as shrink-to-fit. Follow the maker’s initial soaking instructions before using the routine below.
- Sanforized or one-wash. Check for a specific exception before assuming no preparation is needed. Iron Heart’s sanforized 25oz XHS, for example, is meant to be soaked or washed before wear. Product care instructions.
- Still unsure. Ask the seller about the exact pair’s treatment and expected shrinkage before wetting it.
Need help decoding the label? Start with raw, selvedge, sanforized and one-wash explained.
Decide whether it needs cleaning now
The six-month wait is a fade preference, not a condition you must meet. Nudie Jeans describes it as a suggestion for developing patina on its dry denim.
If your jeans are dirty or smell, wash them rather than waiting for brighter crease lines. If they are still clean, you can keep wearing them. Blue Owl bases timing on use and condition, so this guide does not prescribe a minimum month or annual wash count.
Skip the freezer shortcut. Many bacteria survive freezing; it is not a dependable substitute for washing. Smithsonian’s explanation.
Pick your detergent, then wash
For ordinary cleaning after any required initial treatment, choose a mild liquid laundry detergent without bleach or optical brighteners. A suitable dark-fabric detergent you already own may be enough; a denim label is not a requirement. Check its dosing directions for your chosen method. Denimhunters’ detergent guidance.
Hand washing is useful when you want to control handling. The following is a cold-water routine adapted from Blue Owl’s guide, subject to your garment’s instructions.
- Prepare. Empty pockets, unfold cuffs and turn the jeans inside out.
- Wash. Wash alone in enough cold water to submerge them, using the detergent’s hand-wash dose. Soak for about 30 minutes unless the garment or detergent directions say otherwise.
- Rinse. Move the fabric gently, without scrubbing or twisting, then rinse thoroughly to remove detergent. Handling and rinsing guidance.
Machine washing is also an option if the maker permits it. Choose the specified temperature, a short gentle cycle and low or no spin; Iron Heart permits machine washing for its listed denims. Do not transfer its temperature limit to a different brand’s jeans. Iron Heart care guide.
Dry, check the fit, then decide about hemming
Straighten the legs while damp and air dry. For this routine, choose shade and skip the tumble dryer; Brave Star’s drying advice also warns about heat-related shrinkage.
Once dry, try them on before deciding that the fit has changed permanently. Washing can take up stretch from wear, and unwashed, unsanforized denim can shrink further over its early washes. Do not rely on an hour of wear to restore the old size. Iron Heart’s shrinkage explanation.
If the legs still need shortening, account for the maker’s expected remaining shrinkage before cutting. Then use the chain stitch and clean hem guide to choose the finish.
How this guide was built
Written by AI for Chexlow, using manufacturer care guidance from Iron Heart, Nudie Jeans and Brave Star, alongside Blue Owl, Denimhunters and Smithsonian. The guide separates initial shrinkage treatment from cleaning jeans you have worn; it does not report product testing or guarantee a particular fade or fit.
Edited by the Chexlow team · Images are AI-generated illustrations